Arbor Vitae

Arbor Vitae in the early 1900s (from an old postcard)

Arbor Vitae in the early 1900s (from an old postcard): note the well that can be seen in the front garden to the right of the picture.

Arbor Vitae (“the tree of life”) is a Grade II listed cottage on the south side of The Street in the middle of Fulking. The listing details read as follows:

C17 or earlier timber-framed building with painted brick infilling, ground floor brick infilling, ground floor rebuilt in flints, now also painted. Tiled roof. Casement windows, those on first floor with diamond-shaped panes. Two storeys. Four windows.

The original building was three rooms wide, an unusual configuration for a cottage. It is of half-timbered construction and, for most of its existence, would have been painted in the traditional manner with the walls lime washed and the timbers picked out in black tar. To this day, some of the windows still have old glass set in diamond shaped leaded panes.

Arbor Vitae in the 1950s (photo from Howe 1958, page 97)

Arbor Vitae in the 1950s (photo from Howe 1958, page 97)

The building comprises a single dwelling today but was probably originally built as two and, at one stage, housed three families. During its history, the eastern end has been extended twice. In the 1980s Peter Sheppard, a property developer, made further additions including eastern aspect dormer windows and a new front porch. He had a good eye and effectively blended the new with the old. In the southeast corner of the grounds, he converted an old wooden shed into a brick and flint garage. This garage was subsequently converted into a calligrapher’s studio. In the 2000s further minor changes were made to the property including a new dormer window at the rear and the erection of an oak, brick and flint wall conservatory.

At the beginning of the 20th century, George Stephen Cane Cuttress owned and operated the brewery at Poynings. He also owned various properties in Fulking, including Arbor Vitae which he sold at auction in 1914. The bill of sale described it as one cottage with its own well, let to George Beard for an annual rent of £15. George Beard was a member of a family who had lived in the parish of Edburton for many decades. He was the uncle of William Beard who emigrated to Australia in 1909.

Arbor Vitae in the winter of 1991 by Stuart Howgrave-Graham

A photograph of Arbor Vitae in the winter of 1991 taken by Stuart Howgrave-Graham. The dormer windows added in the 1980s by Peter Sheppard can be seen to the left of the red Post Office sign.

In the mid twentieth century the cottage incorporated a medical facility. Dr. Robert (Bob) Cunningham-Jones from Hassocks held a weekly surgery there and, when he retired, it was continued by Dr. Paul Wellings from Henfield. In the 1960s the surgery was moved to the village hall. It was discontinued in the 1980s because the facility was inadequate for the purpose.

Whilst he was living at Arbor Vitae, Peter Sheppard began experimenting with plastic mouldings. He almost smoked out The Street when the machine he was using overheated. He sold the house to Derek Lintott and his wife Josephine (Jo). Derek was a surveyor and for a while was Chairman of the Parish Council. Jo was a professional calligrapher who worked mainly at home in the studio at the end of the garden. She also appeared in a BBC Television programme featuring Sussex village life. While she was resident in Fulking she lead a successful campaign to persuade BT not to remove the traditional, red K6 telephone box from The Street and replace it with a more up to date, but totally incongruous, metal and glass booth. The telephone box that she sucessfully fought to save itself became a Grade II listed building in 1988.

Arbor Vitae in 2007

Arbor Vitae in 2007: comparison with the 1950s photo above reveals how the later two-storey extension has seamlessly replaced a single storey lean-to.

Tony Brooks

Reference

  • F.A. Howe (1958) A Chronicle of Edburton and Fulking in the County of Sussex. Crawley: Hubners Ltd.

[Copyright © 2014, Anthony R. Brooks. Adapted from Anthony R. Brooks (2008) The Changing Times of Fulking & Edburton. Chichester: RPM Print & Design, pages 168-169, 245-246.]

Edburton House

A postcard showing Edburton Rectory as it was in the early 1900s.

A postcard showing Edburton Rectory as it was in the early 1900s.

Edburton House is the former rectory for St. Andrew’s in Edburton. It is Grade II listed but the listing details themselves tell us rather little:

C18. Two storeys. Four windows. Faced with roughcast. Tiled roof. Glazing bars intact.

F.A. Howe, who lived next door in the 1950s, is, as usual, more informative:

The rectory appears to be eighteenth century. If any part of an older building is incorporated, it cannot be much for George Keith (Rector 1705-1716) complained of the rectory as “old and crazy and low”; about the year 1710, when he was ill in bed, the wall against which it stood gave way and tumbled into the garden, drawing the bed and its occupant halfway through the breach. This event, and the heavy timbering of the attics may be pointers to an early date in the eighteenth century for the present building. Subsequent alterations were the adding of a range of stables at the east end by Charles Baker (Rector 1754-1784), which survive except for the coachman’s cottage, and which replaced others farther from the house. Early in the nineteenth century some internal replanning, including the substitution of the present meagre entrance on the east side for one on the south front were made. In 1868, the patch of grassland south of the old east approach to the churchyard was exchanged for crownland north of the church. The Reverend Francis Gell (Rector 1884-1891) dignified this approach, which now ran within his garden, by the erection of the lych gate.

The lych gate that links the rectory garden to the churchyard

The lych gate that links the rectory garden to the churchyard

Today, the oldest part of the building is the wall at the west end, which dates back to 1664. At one time the house had five hearths. After the 1710 collapse noted by Howe, the house was reconstructed in stages during the 1700s and 1800s. First, the roof level of the central section was raised and a little later, between 1754 and 1782, a good-sized room and hall, plus an additional stable were constructed. In the 1800s the main entrance was moved from the south side of the building to the east side and an extension was added to the west end. This included a stairwell, which seems to have been added partly to allow access for pupils attending classes being given by the then Rector. Finally, a kitchen wing was added.

A model railway ran round the grounds of the rectory garden between 1939 and 1945 when Robert Westall was the incumbent and there is some evidence that this layout, or one similar to it, thought to have belonged to a friend of a previous rector, may have been in place from as early as 1924. As far as local residents can recall, it was between a 3″ and a 5″ gauge and electrically driven. The track was supported on piers and ran on a low platform through the garage, where the rolling stock was stored and there was another, smaller, model railway layout in the house itself. Reverend Westhall also had a printing press and was a very competent typesetter. He thus produced the Parish magazine and other church notices himself. He and his family owned a pony and trap and he used this when visiting sick parishioners, often bringing them new laid eggs and items of food (rationing had started in January 1940). Unsurprisingly, Reverend Westall was a popular member of the local community.

In the 1950s, the combined effects of poor management and the Church of England’s losses on the stock market meant that St. Andrew’s and its associated buildings, which included the rectory, became dilapidated. No rector was appointed to St. Andrew’s — there was just a ‘priest in charge’. To prevent the situation becoming any worse, the parishes of Edburton and Poynings were amalgamated in 1957 and John Francis Cornish was appointed as Rector of Edburton and Poynings, a post he held for 22 years. He lived at The Rectory in Poynings. Edburton Rectory, also known as ‘The Vicarage’, was sold in the same year and became a private house.

Edburton House as viewed from St. Andrew's churchyard in 2013

Edburton House as viewed from St. Andrew’s churchyard in 2013

The first private owner was Frederick Henry Hillson, who was the proprietor of several newsagents in Brighton and Hove. He commissioned a builder to carry out a considerable amount of repair work and during this time a vertical beam that ran from top to bottom of the house was discovered. A specialist surveyor dated this back to the twelfth century. However, today this is once again concealed within the fabric of the building.

In 1962, the house was purchased by Teddy Hales and his American wife Anne. Teddy Hales worked as an Inspector of Schools and was influential in getting world history included in the secondary school syllabus. He was also an historian of the catholic church and published half a dozen books in that area between 1954 and 1965.

Like the Reverend Westall, Teddy was a model railway enthusiast and he set about improving the train layout, adding tunnels, viaducts, signals and a station. He eventually modified it to the point where, by removing pieces of glass from an exterior wall, he was able to operate the trains around the garden and through the house, from his office desk. For wet days, he also had a 0-gauge layout, which ran around the upper floor, connected via small holes cut through the walls of each room.

Teddy Hales died in Italy in 1986 and the former rectory was sold. The new owner commissioned further extensive repairs and landscaped the grounds. The path leading to the lych gate entrance to the church is no longer used and, since the house was connected to the mains water supply in 1964, two of three wells in the grounds are also no longer in use. The third is retained in service for watering the garden.

Edburton House viewed from the drive in 2007

Edburton House viewed from the drive in 2007

Tony Brooks

References

  • F.A. Howe (1958) A Chronicle of Edburton and Fulking in the County of Sussex. Crawley: Hubners Ltd, page 33.

[Copyright © 2013, Anthony R. Brooks. Adapted from Anthony R. Brooks (2008) The Changing Times of Fulking & Edburton. Chichester: RPM Print & Design, pages 201-203, 279-280, 330, 425-426.]

11th December 1989

Items for sale in the window of Fulking Post Office Stores

Items for sale in the window of Fulking Post Office Stores

A diary extract:

At the moment the shop smells delicious; there are six Christmas trees in there (waiting to go outside when I open) and mince pies and gingerbread plus the smell of oranges and apples and fresh bread. In the window is a rocking horse waiting to be collected. It was made by an old man who makes hand carved walking sticks which I sell here. Another man brought in some nesting boxes and a little wooden wheelbarrow for me to sell. The wheelbarrow is for planting flowers in but somebody bought it last week for a child. I told her I was a bit doubtful and sure enough it’s back here again.

Gill Milner, Old Post Office

Rocking horse sold in Fulking Post Office Stores

Michaelmas Cottage

[This is the second of two posts about the history of this house. The first is here.]

Rectory Cottage Edburton c1900

A postcard of Rectory Cottage, Edburton from c1900. The house is now known as Michaelmas Cottage.

Michaelmas Cottage is a Grade II listed building in Edburton. It is now a single dwelling but it comprised a terrace of two or three cottages for much of its history. The listing details are as follows:

Possibly the pre-reformation clergy house. C16 timber-framed cottage with plaster and red brick infilling, south end added later. Thatched roof, south end tiled. Casement windows. Two storeys. Two windows.

Hudson (Victoria County History) tells us that

Michaelmas Cottage is a small 16th century timber-framed house with a crown-post roof. A chimney-stack and an upper floor were inserted into the former open hall in the 17th century, and the house was at some time shortened to the north and extended to the south.

During his tenancy, F.A. Howe made a detailed study of “the three cottages, now merged, standing to the south of the church”:

The earliest of these is probably the oldest example of the house of the small yeoman farmer surviving in the parish, and, at least until 1956 it was substantially in its original condition. The walls, resting securely on the solid greensand, are of cob, or consolidated lime reinforced by straw or cattle dung. They are of an average thickness of twenty inches. They enclose the ground floor and support an upper storey of timber framing rising from an inverted king-post gable. The interior is divided by a timber-framed plaster-filled partition running up through both floors, making an entrance lobby 3’6″ by 3′ (the original purpose of the space behind is unknown: it is now a food-store) and the living room 12’0″ by 7’6″, with a height of 5’6″. There is a wooden staircase which may be later than the building. The upper storey, floored on beams resting on the cob walls had a bedroom over the living room from which a second room was entered through a doorway not four feet high under a beam cut away for headroom to the shape of a depressed Tudor arch, a feature of significance in dating the building. This second bedroom, almost entirely under the roof slope (the upright walls of both rooms are not shoulder high), was no wider than the lobby below and was lighted by a single window not more than a foot square. As late as 1900 these rooms were slept in by at least four people, the men in the larger and the women in the other. The living room had a chimney recess in the north wall from which extended the usual baking oven.

A notable and unusual feature is a small opening called an owl window set in the north gable end wall. At one time, grain was stored at the north end of the house, but mice and rats would enter under the roof thatch to raid and spoil the grain, rendering it useless. To prevent this, the window was left open allowing owls to come in and control the mice and rats (Customary Cottage, in Fulking, also has an owl window). Underneath the owl window was a massive, wooden water butt that stood about five and a half feet tall and alongside this was a rosemary bush that grew to a similar height.

Michaelmas Cottage, Edburton in 2007

Michaelmas Cottage, Edburton, viewed from the north in 2007. Note the owl window located off-centre immediately above the brickwork in the end wall.

A well in the garden used to supply water for all three cottages and this was still in use up until 1964, when mains water finally reached Edburton. Today, the cottage has large grounds and a flint wall separates it from the path that used to run between the Edburton Road and St. Andrew’s Church. The grounds have always been memorable for the lupins in the sunken garden located on the right hand side of the path leading to the cottage door. The exterior features of the three original buildings are largely unchanged. Inside, the bake oven can still be seen beside the large chimney in the north wall of the living room, but otherwise the interior has been modernised.

The three cottages had a common owner by 1839 and were subsequently converted into a single dwelling. The house was known as Rectory Cottage around 1900 (see the early postcard reproduced at the top of this post) and later as Half Thatch (for a rather obvious reason) and as Glebe Cottages. For at least part of the first half of the twentieth century, the house was owned by the church. Thus a Mr. and Mrs. Smith were church tenants from 1939 to 1950. Mr. Smith was employed to maintain the vicarage garden and the churchyard whilst his wife took care of the interior of the church which was, at that time, notable for the smell of the lavender polish that she used. The couple also treated the church door once a year with linseed oil, maintained the oil lamps used in the church before electricity was connected and kept two coke burning stoves in working order for use when services and other events were scheduled. During the war, a barrage balloon broke from its moorings in Wish Park in Hove and came to rest in their garden.

Between 1950 and 1956, F.A. Howe and his wife became the tenants. Mr. Howe was a churchwarden and their son was a vicar who often visited the church and also preached there on occasion (he went on to become a bishop). Shortly after leaving Edburton for Henfield, F.A. Howe published A Chronicle of Edburton and Fulking which remains the definitive work on the early history of the parish.

In 1956, the church sold the cottage to Mr. and Mrs. Cavosa, who took up residence with their son and two daughters. Mr. Cavosa caught polio from eating ice cream from a shop in Burgess Hill and died shortly thereafter. In the 1980s, Mrs. Cavosa sold the property to Norman and Rita Holt who lived there until 2006, helping with the church and maintaining the cottage. The Holts renamed the house Michaelmas Cottage. During this time, Norman Holt identified some extensive, old foundations in the grounds, which suggest that a house, vicarage or large barn belonging to the church, but long since demolished, once stood on the site. However Norman Holt died in 2006, before he was able to provide more details of this interesting discovery.

Michaelmas Cottage as seen from the road in 2013

Michaelmas Cottage as seen from the road in 2013

Tony Brooks

References

  • F.A. Howe (1958) A Chronicle of Edburton and Fulking in the County of Sussex. Crawley: Hubners Ltd, pages 36 & 79.
  • T.P. Hudson (1987) A History of the County of Sussex, Volume VI, Part 3, Bramber Rape. Oxford: OUP, page 47.

[Copyright © 2013, Anthony R. Brooks. Adapted from Anthony R. Brooks (2008) The Changing Times of Fulking & Edburton. Chichester: RPM Print & Design, pages 165, 203-204, 281, 325-326, 409.]

Currently popular local history posts:

Farm conversion

The conversion of Hazeley Farm into houses
The Hampshire Chronicle reports that the SDNPA has just approved the conversion of an entire farmyard into housing:

Eight barns will be turned into dwellings in Twyford, near Winchester, after applicant Hazeley Farm was granted planning permission by the South Downs National Park.

This is very similar, albeit on a slightly larger scale, to what Terry Willis did with the original Perching Manor farmyard twenty odd years ago.

Rhodes formerly Gilberts

[The essay that follows was written in 1956 by F.A. Howe, a churchwarden and an important figure in parish life in the 1950s. He lived in the cottage that is the subject of this article and went on, in 1958, to publish the definitive book on the early history of Edburton and Fulking. This is the first of two posts about the history of the building now known as Michaelmas Cottage.]

Like many another occupant of an old cottage, we often wished we could people ours in thought with its inhabitants of olden days, but it seemed that our ‘Thatch End’ would not yield up its secrets. Yet some of its story was there for the seeking, and readers may like to know what I have found and how I found it.

Gilberts or Rhodes, Edburton, F.A. Howe 1958
The village historian will have collected a mass of records from many sources. Some of these may convey little information, but now and then a new source is tapped, and quite a lot of the items suddenly fall into a connected story. I have had just such an experience concerning Edburton. Recently the Sussex Archaeological Society published a complete list of the deeds in its possession. Several of these referred to Edburton and some of them I had not seen. They proved to include nine deeds relating to the transfer of a copyhold property[1] referred to first in 1734 as a “messuage, garden and lands, late Gilberts in Aberton” and in later deeds as “late Rhoades” (or Rhodes). The place was evidently described, as places still often are, by the names of the owners, as we should say “Gilberts” house or “Rhode’s cottage”.

The earliest of the set of deeds to which I have referred is a court roll for Gilberts, dated 1734, when the copyholder, Thomas Street, died and left the property to his widow, Anne, and on her death to their son Thomas. The roll satisfied this and “admits” the new owners to possession.

A copyhold deed from 1699 [University of Nottingham]

A copyhold deed from 1699 [University of Nottingham]

After Thomas Street, a roll or more is missing, and the next surviving roll shows the occupant as George Barber, who died in 1780[2] and left the property to his married daughter Hannah Marshall. We can now begin to people ‘Gilberts or Rhodes’ with real people, for the parish registers came to our aid, telling us that “George Barber was buried Sep ye 8th (1780) aged 93 and had been 57 years clerk to this parish”. As for Hannah, she had been the central figure in a pretty village scandal. When she was nineteen years old she had become the mother of Isaac, whose father was named Friend, and for this she had done public penance in the church. Not only was she the daughter of the parish clerk, but the Friend family was prominent in the parish; one of them had been churchwarden and perhaps was so still; however, Hannah became a sober housewife by marriage with William Marshall, to whom she bore five children.

The next rolls show Hannah’s eldest son, William, inheriting the property on her death in 1790, and he in turn leaving at his death in 1819 to his sister Ann, who had married Thomas Lee of Bletchingly in Surrey. She at once sold it to George Marshall, wheelwright, of Poynings, for eighty pounds. The last roll of this series shows it passing when George died in 1839 to his daughter Susan, wife of Thomas Walls a confectioner of Brighton.

Here arises a difficulty, for there is a parallel set of rolls concerning the descent of “a customary messuage or tenement, garden, lands and premises late Rhode’s, and theretofore Gilbert’s”, through three generations of the family of Gallup. On the evidence of these rolls this property passed to John Gallup in 1789, and on his death in 1797 to his grandson, John, an infant, in the guardianship of the boy’s father William. In 1819 this property, like Ann Lee’s, passed to George Marshall. Both the 1819 rolls bear the same date, 21st January, so we may assume that Marshall bought both properties. The most reasonable explanation is that this second property was the second (middle) cottage, added in the eighteenth century to the older one at the north end, which was Barters.

A detail from the Edburton tithe map, 1842

A detail from the Edburton tithe map, 1842

So far, so good, but where was “Rhodes, formerly Gilberts”. The parish registers tell us nothing and the copyhold rolls do not specify, until, indeed, one of the 1819 pair gives a hint. The admission of Susan Walls was to the messuage in Edburton adjoining the churchyard, and this leads to the third source, the tithe award of 1841. This is a detailed assessment of the tithe due from every field and property in the parish, and it is accompanied by a map [see above] in which every property is numbered. George Marshall is shown as the owner of Nos. 235 and 236. He had in fact died in 1839, so presumably the data for the tithe award had been collected before 1841 and not corrected. Reference to the map showed the property to be three cottages known in my time as Thatch End or the rectory cottage, and its garden. The very place I had lived in myself for nearly six years!

Plot 235 contained the three cottages, separately occupied by John Holding, William Mawley and Thomas Parker. No. 236, the northern part of the site, was separately held by James Cuttress, and is described as “garden”. Maps of a later date show this section hedged off from the cottage end, and the line of this hedge can still be made out.

The eastern elevation of Rectory Cottage, c1900

The eastern elevation of Rectory Cottage, c1900. Its origin as a terrace of three cottages each built at a different time is rather evident from the wall.

So now the shades of past characters move about the cottages. Of Gilberts we know nothing, but Edward Rhodes lived there before 1700 with Alice his wife, their daughter Elizabeth and their two sons who went away as apprentices, Edward, born in 1692, and bound for seven years to a cordwainer at Lewes, and William, born in 1695, bound in 1721 to a carpenter at Woodmancote. Elizabeth married Nicholas Turner but died in childbirth in 1721 and was buried at Edburton.

Next we can see George Barber, the nonagenarian, with his wife Frances and the unfortunate Hannah and her husband and children, and Hannah returning home in her widowhood to live with her son William until she died at the ripe age of seventy-two.

While these lived their lives in the oldest cottage, next door in the newer, but still ancient second cottage, old John Gallop saw his daughter married to a Woodmancote shoemaker, and when he died, we see his son William caring for his young son, another John, whose house by now it was, and how that William became Churchwarden (1802-1804), how he lost his wife and married again, and at last was laid to rest in 1831 at the age of 75 in the grave nearest the south porch of the church, where, as the headstone still enigmatically announces, “on either side lieth the remains of each of his two former wives”[3].

Susan Gallop died 1849 aged 67

‘In memory of Susan, widow of William Gallop, who died 30th June 1849 aged 67 years’ — gravestone in Edburton churchyard, right of porch.

As a last scene, we see James Cuttress who, as a boy of seven years, had been threatened with a horsewhipping for letting some sheep wander[4], tilling his patch where now is the top of the garden.

F.A. Howe, 1956

Footnotes

[1] As is to be expected in a community with such strong manorial traditions, many of the smaller dwellings were held by copyhold tenure until its abolition in 1926. They derive from the villeinage of the manors, and are historically the estates which became the property of the freed villeins who became the small farmers, the ‘yeomen’ or ‘husbandmen’ of later description. Copyhold property was not transferred as freehold property was, by title deeds, but at each transfer, whether by inheritance or otherwise, by a decision of the court baron of manorial tenants summoned by the steward of the manor and recording its witness to the transfer of the property to its new owner in a deed called a court roll. [The text of this footnote is taken from Howe 1958, page 33 and replaces the corresponding paragraph in Howe’s earlier 1956 article.]

[2] Members of the Barber family were still living in the parish a century later.

[3] This headstone had either disappeared or become illegible by 1991 when Joan Harris compiled the Edburton graves ledger. Howe does not remark on how truly strange the inscription is: William Gallop’s widow was to outlive him by eighteen years. The inscription must have been added to his stone after her death in 1849. But by whose instruction?

[4] James Cuttress deposed as follows [in 1843]:

I am 46 years of age. I used to tend sheep for Mr. Goddard, tenant of Robert’s farm. I was then seven years old. I tended them in Fulking Lane. They went out into Holmbush Lane. Mr. Charles Marchant saw them, drove them back and threatened to horsewhip me. He said it was out of Fulking Parish and they should not go there. He then occupied Brooklands which is half in Woodmancote.

Thus, at the beginning of the nineteenth century, were small children exploited.
[The text of this footnote is taken from Howe 1958, page 29.]

References

  • Joan Harris (1991) Monumental Inscriptions, The Parish Church of St. Andrew, Edburton, West Sussex. Lewes: Sussex Family History Group.
  • F.A. Howe (1956) “Rhodes formerly Gilberts”, St. Andrew’s Quarterly 32 (October).
  • F.A. Howe (1958) A Chronicle of Edburton and Fulking in the County of Sussex. Crawley: Hubners Ltd, pages 29, 33-36, 101.